Winter Soups (and cozy nights)

Recipes: Corn chowder, Split pea with ham soup, Butternut squash bisque with fresh ginger

Brrr! We've got a winter cold snap going in northern California (you East Coasters and MidWesterners will laugh). It's actually in the low 30s at night, with Saturday's low forecast at 25 degrees! Fortunately my veggie garden - broccoli, sorrel, kale, cauliflower, various chilis - are in pots so they'll be coming up onto the front porch on Saturday. They may even get a blanket or two to ward off frost.

Meanwhile, Wayne and I have a fire going today. Our home, which is almost 100 years old and not particularly airtight, was built for our normal moderate Mediterranean climate. In the summer, it's cool as can be. If winter happens to turn cold, it's also cool. The furnace has little impact. The only thing that warms the house up is a roaring fire in the fireplace, and that works like a charm. It's also cheerful and cozy, and makes me think of hot soup.

What's better than hot soup on a cold night? Well, a hot toddy would be good too, but we're talking about nutrition here, people. I've been making soup all week since it's cold and getting colder. Here's what's coming out of my kitchen . . .

Corn Chowder

I have two recipes for corn chowder. One uses fresh corn on the cob, and is a little work intensive (but worth it!). I'll share that one with you sometime in the summer, when fresh corn is at its best. This recipe uses frozen corn and is easy and just as fabulous. The "secret" is to puree some of the frozen corn in a blender - this gives the soup an especially corny taste.

• 1 pound package of frozen corn
• 2 slices bacon, chopped in small pieces
• 1/2 medium onion, minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 medium red potato, scrubbed and cut in small cubes
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Blend half the corn in a blender with all the chicken broth until it is fairly smooth.

In a medium Dutch oven, cook the bacon over medium heat until it is nearly crisp. Stir in the chopped onion and cook about 5 minutes, stirring now and then. Add the minced garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Stir in the corn-broth puree and the milk, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Stir in the cubed potatoes, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Be sure to scrape the bottom when you stir.

Add the remaining corn and the cream. Bring back to a simmer and continue to cook about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, and remove the bay leaf, before serving.

Split Pea with Ham Soup 

This recipe is an adaptation of one in America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook.

• 1/2 pound (1/2 package) split green peas, picked over (for little stones) and rinsed
• 1/4 pound cooked ham, or more if you want, chopped in chunks
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• Sea salt
• 3 cups water
• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
• 1 small onion, minced
• 1 rib celery, chopped
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• Freshly ground black pepper

Bring the peas, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and water to a simmer in a large Dutch oven. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 1 hour.

Stir in the carrots, onion, and celery. Continue to simmer until the peas have softened and broken down, about 30 minutes.

Add the ham, and continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste before serving.

This soup freezes well, if you want to make a double batch or to make it in advance. Just reheat over low heat, adding a little water if it's too thick.

Butternut Squash Bisque with Fresh Ginger

This is one of my favorite soups. I first tasted it in Manly Beach, Australia, and loved it. The chef kindly gave me the recipe, but he neglected a key ingredient. After several years of searching, I finally figured it out - it was apple!

Fresh ginger gives the soup a lovely flavor and a little kick - use more grated over at the end if you want more kick!

Timing note: You must bake the squash for 1 hour before making the soup.

• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour)
• 5 cups chicken broth
• 1 medium butternut squash, cut in half, seeded, and baked cut side down at 375 degrees for 1 hour.
• 2 medium apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 cup heavy cream
• freshly grated ginger

Scrape the baked squash flesh from the skin, and hold it in a bowl.

Saute onion and garlic in butter in a large heavy soup pot or Dutch oven. Add flour, stirring until smooth. Cook, stirring, on minute. Add chicken broth and bring it to a boil, stirring.

Add the squash, apples, thyme, and salt and simmer 10 minutes.

Let cool a little, and then puree in batches in a food processor or blender, or put through a food mill into a large bowl. Return the soup to the pot, add the cream and grated ginger to taste (I use at least 1 tablespoon), and reheat.

Serve with more grated ginger on top if you wish.

This soup freezes well if you freeze it before adding the cream.