Low and Slow (or braising is yum!)

Recipes: Braised lamb shoulder chops, Whole wheat couscous, Braised leeks, Homemade mango chutney 

Braising, which is cooking meat and/or vegetables in a small amount of liquid over low heat, is one of my favorite cooking methods. If you're asking why, it must be that you haven't tried it.

Here are a few of the reasons I cook this way a lot:

1. Braising allows you to use a relatively inexpensive cut of meat, like lamb shoulder chops or pork shoulder or cut-up chicken, and produce an exceptionally tender and flavorful dish for fewer $$$.
2. It's a healthy way to cook, using very little fat and utilizing all the delicious vitamin-filled juices.
3. Vegetables are used to add rich flavor to the meat. Combined with the meat juices, they make an amazing "instant" gravy, or they can be braised by themselves with melt-in-your-mouth-tender results.
4. Braising is easy to do, and is hands-off during most of the time it takes. You can braise in the oven or on the stovetop, which is great on a warm summer day - no need to turn on the oven.
5. Some meats take two or more hours to braise in the oven or on the stovetop, which is fine when you're home anyway. Most vegetables, as well as meats like chicken, are finished in less than an hour, which makes them a smart choice for dinner on a busy weeknight.

The basic strategy for meats is this: Brown the meat in a little olive oil and remove it to a plate while you saute chopped or sliced onions and whatever other vegetables and seasonings you are using. Return the browned meat to the pan, deglaze with a little wine, and possibly add a little broth. Bring the liquid to a boil, then cover the pot and either bake it in the oven at a low heat (350 degrees) or turn the stovetop burner down to low and barely simmer it until the meat is very tender and much of the liquid is absorbed.

Let's try this with a couple of lamb shoulder chops. First, be sure you buy shoulder chops, not the much more expensive lamb loin chops. Shoulder chops are larger and usually about an inch-and-a-half thick. They are tough unless they are long-cooked, so that's how we're going to cook them. Then they'll be meltingly tender and even more delicious than the little (and more costly) lamb chops.

Braised Lamb Shoulder Chops

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Season 2 lamb shoulder chops with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon ground cumin. In a 12-in oven-proof skillet or heavy Dutch oven, brown them on both sides in a little olive oil. Remove them from the pan and set them aside on a plate.

To the same pan, add another tablespoon olive oil and saute:

• half a large onion, sliced thin
• 4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
• half a serrano or jalapeno chile, chopped
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
• 1 stalk celery, chopped, 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

Saute, stirring often, until softened. Add 1 tablespoon tomato paste and mix well.

Add 1 cup good red wine (like a cabernet or a zinfandel) and deglaze the pot, scraping the bottom well with a wooden spoon. Then add 1 cup chicken stock and bring the liquid to a boil.

Add the chops and any juices that have accumulated on the plate to the pot, nestling the chops into the vegetables. Cover and bake for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, watching the liquid and turning the chops and vegetables once or twice. When it is done, the meat should be falling apart and the liquid should be reduced and somewhat thickened.



Braised lamb chops are especially good served over couscous, with a good mango chutney on the side. The starch soaks up the lovely juices and the chutney provides a sweet-spicy contrast to the richness of the meat and vegetables.

Whole Wheat Couscous

Couscous couldn't be easier. I much prefer whole wheat couscous, but regular couscous is good too.

Bring 2 cups water to a boil. Put one cup dry couscous in a bowl. Add boiling water till it covers the couscous by 1 inch. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 1/4 teaspoon sea salt. Cover the bowl tightly with cling film.

Let the couscous steam for about 7 minutes, or until the water is absorbed. Remove the cling film and fluff the grains with a fork. You're done.

* * *



I was feeling a tiny bit guilty about suggesting this recipe for braised leeks in the same meal with braised lamb - it's not my usual idea of Balance. However, just this morning I read in New York Times Magazine that Mark Bittman, food writer for the Times, had put together a spring dinner party for friends that included braised lamb shoulder and braised carrots and parsnips . . . I'm in good company, all of us outlaws!

This recipe is so delicious, and it's wonderful with lamb and most other things. So as long as we're talking about braising already, here's the veggie side of things.

Braised Leeks

Heat the oven to 325 degrees, unless you're already cooking the lamb chops at 350 and then leave it at that.

• 3 large or 6 medium leeks
• 2/3 cup chicken stock
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Cut off the roots of the leeks and the leaves two inches above where white turns to green. Strip off any withered leaves from the outside.

Cut the leeks in half lengthwise, or in quarters if large, and wash thoroughly under cold running water. Leeks often harbor sand and grit, ugly to get in your mouth.

Lay the leeks in one or two layers in an oven-proof skillet or a baking dish that can also be heated on the stove (enameled cast-iron or heavy stainless steel). Pour the chicken stock over. Cut the butter in pieces and distribute it over the leeks.

Bring the stock to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste the stock and add a little salt if needed and freshly ground pepper. Cover the dish loosely with foil and put it in the oven.

Cook in the oven for 20 minutes. If you're making the lamb dish, you can put it right next to it for the last part of its cooking. The leeks are done when they're lightly colored and the stock has almost cooked away.

Now you have a delicious dinner ready to plate. Serve the lamb over the couscous, with long pieces of tender leeks next to it. A beautiful serving bowl of mango chutney will round out the dinner.

You're finished, unless of course you want to

!!!Step it up!!! 

 

and create your own mango chutney. Aside from a bit of chopping, it's easy to make and far better than anything you'll buy in a jar. Besides, you can control the amount of heat and the amount of sweet. If the someone you're cooking for loves heat and sweet, he/she will certainly "appreciate" you for the extra effort!!

 

Homemade Mango Chutney

An adaptation of a recipe from Alton Brown

 

Chutney should cool thoroughly before you use it, so it's best made the day before.

• 2 pounds (usually 2 medium) fresh mangos, ripe but not too soft
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon (or more) red chile flakes
• 1 1/2 cups medium dice red onion
• 1/3 cup peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 1/2 cup small dice red bell pepper
• 1/2 cup unsweetened pineapple juice
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup (or more) brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons (or a little more) curry powder, either yellow (mild) or red (hot)
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup raisins

 

Peel the mangoes, and cut the flesh from the pit. The pit is oblong and fairly large. Start by slicing off one side of the mango, and work your way around the pit, slicing. Then slice off the ends. Roughly chop the flesh and put it in a bowl until needed.

 

In a medium to large heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the oil and add the chile flakes. Toast the flakes for a few seconds, then add the onions and sweat them until soft (8-10 minutes over medium-low heat), stirring occasionally. Add the ginger and bell pepper and saute for 1 to 2 minutes. Finally add the mango and cook for 1 more minute.

 

In a separate bowl, combine the pineapple juice, vinegar, sugar, and curry powder. Add this to the pan with the mango, stirring to combine. Bring the mixture to a bare simmer and cook at this low heat for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring frequently. The liquid should reduce somewhat. Taste it, and season with salt and pepper as needed. Add the raisins, stir, and let cool.

 

Store in glass jars in the refrigerator. This recipe will make about 2 cups of chutney.