Chicken chicken (or frica-what?)

Recipes: Fricaseed chicken with peppers and sage, Broccolini with lemon, Roasted rosemary potatoes

There seems to be confusion around a simple but delicious dish called chicken fricasee.

It's a dish that's been around a long time, actually it was Abraham Lincoln's favorite (yes, THAT long), but you don't always see it described as fricasee. Many times chefs and authors will call this dish "braised chicken", because the cooking method is like braising. Marcella Hazan says "fricasee". Some authors from the U.S. South say "fricasee", others don't. Alice Waters says "braise". Call it what you like.

Unlike a braise of pork or lamb, a fricasee takes less than an hour, partly because it's almost always used with chicken. It's one of the easiest, most delicious ways to cook chicken and vegetables on relatively short notice, whether it's for the two of you or for unexpected guests, and it definitely belongs in your food repertoire.

Sauteed onions, garlic, and other vegetables form the basis for the rich flavor of the dish. You can be creative here, using bell peppers or mushrooms or celery or fennel or tomatoes, for instance. Each will lend a different flavor. Or you can double the amount of sliced onion and use only onion and garlic. I often use fresh sage leaves, but that's because I have a prolific sage bush. You can use dried bay leaves instead, or fresh or dried oregano, or chopped fresh rosemary. You can see there are many options.

There is not a lot of sauce with this chicken. You can serve it as is, or make a small amount of pasta or potatoes to serve with it. For two people, I like just a simple green vegetable as accompaniment. The chicken is rich-tasting, and simplicity keeps things light.

Let's cook dinner.

Fricaseed Chicken with Peppers and Sage for Two

• 3 large or 4 medium chicken thighs, or 2 chicken legs with thigh attached
• sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium or 1/2 large yellow onion, sliced thin
• 1 red, yellow, or orange bell pepper (not green), core and seeds removed, cut in thin strips
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
• 8  - 10 fresh sage leaves
• 1/3 cup dry white wine (a sauvignon blanc in perfect, could use a chardonnay if it's not too heavy)

Pat the chicken pieces dry with paper towels and season them on the skin side with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the olive oil in a skillet that can hold all the chicken without crowding, and put the chicken in to brown, skin side down. While it's browning, season the up side with a little sea salt and pepper. When the first side is browned, turn it over and brown the 2nd side (about 8 minutes total). Remove the chicken to a plate.

In the same pan, saute the sliced onion, bell pepper, and garlic cloves until the onion is beginning to brown and the peppers are softened, stirring now and then. Add the sage leaves and stir to combine.

Put the browned chicken pieces back into the skillet, nestling them into the vegetables. Add the wine and deglaze the pan until you smell the alcohol cook off.

Cover the pan and cook over low heat for 35 minutes (40 minutes if using chicken legs), or until chicken is tender. You're done.

* * *

 

Broccolini is a perfect accompaniment to fricaseed chicken, providing a fresh foil for the rich taste of the meat and vegetables. Many people think broccolini is baby broccoli, but it's not - it's a hybrid of broccoli and a Chinese broccoli called kai-tan. Here's a simple and delicious way to cook broccolini, or any fresh green vegetable like broccoli, green beans, or even asparagus.

 

Broccolini with Lemon

Cut the hard ends off broccolini and discard. Wash the broccolini in a colander.

 

Fill a 12-inch skillet with one inch of water and bring it to a boil. Add the broccolini and simmer it over medium heat for three minutes. It should still be slightly crisp.

 

Remove the broccolini to the colander and drain. Then arrange it on a serving dish and sprinkle with a very small amount of sea salt. Serve it with lemon wedges to squeeze over.

 

You're done, and this is a complete meal for many people. However, you may be cooking for someone who craves a bit o'starch, or has a bigger appetite. Or you may have doubled the chicken recipe because you have guests, so you'd also like to add one more dish. You can definitely

 

!!!Step it up!!!

if you put together a pan of roasted rosemary potatoes. Just slide them into the oven when you start the chicken and everything will be ready at the same time!

 

Roasted Rosemary Potatoes

 Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cut one large potato per person into 2-inch chunks. Leave the skin on. If you have the very large russets, you can use one potato for two persons - use your judgement. You can also use any kind of potato, including sweet potatoes, or mix different kinds. My favorite for this dish is russet, but I often use others or mix them.

In a pot, steam or simmer the potato chunks for 4 minutes. This helps them hold together while they're roasting. Drain and remove them to a large bowl.

Add 1 to 2 tablespoons good olive oil, 1 teaspoon sea salt, a good sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (if you want a little spice), and a tablespoon of chopped fresh rosemary. Mix the chunks carefully with a large spoon to coat them all.

Spread the chunks out on a parchment-lined cookie sheet that's big enough to hold them all in one layer without crowding. Roast them in the center of the oven for 45 minutes, stirring and turning them once or twice with a big spoon. You're done.

Serve with chicken, steak, pork, broiled fish, or eggs, and especially with Chicken Fricasee (see above).