Adjusting, Part 2 (or how to turn risotto for six into risotto for two)

Recipes: Risotto con Parmigiana, Broiled Rockfish,  Homemade Meat Broth

There are many wonderful recipes for risotto, one of Italy's most famous and delectable dishes, but I don't think I've ever seen a risotto recipe for two. This kind of recipe is not so easily quantifiable, as there's nothing but grains of rice to count, so it is a little less intuitive to adjust for fewer people. There is a way, of course, and it's a lot easier than you might think.

Let's start with an original recipe for a simple risotto with Parmesan cheese. I say "simple", but the only thing that makes a risotto more complex is the vegetable or meat you put in it, or on it. Basically, all risotti are made the same way. When you learn this "simple" version, you will know how to make the more complex ones too. It's a bonus!

This recipe comes from Marcella Hazan, my favorite Italian cook and cookbook author. She says in her introduction, "This basic white risotto is the simplest way to prepare the dish, and for many, the finest".

• 5 cups Basic Homemade Meat Broth, or 1 cup canned beef broth diluted with 4 cups water
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons onion chopped very fine
• 2 cups Arborio or other imported Italian risotto rice
• 1/2 heaping cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
• Salt, if required

Serves 6

The first thing we'll look at is the amount of rice. If two cups serves six (generously, I happen to know), then we'd be in the right ballpark to use 3/4 cup for two. Then let's consider the other main ingredient, the broth. I'm guessing you don't have homemade broth in the fridge or freezer, so let's go with canned broth, but how much? I'm going to say two cups, a little less than half the amount given in the recipe, because 3/4 cup is a little less than half of the original 2 cups rice.

I personally don't like the taste of canned beef broth, so I use chicken broth instead. You could also used canned (or boxed) vegetable broth, to make the dish vegetarian. I've usually used straight broth in this recipe rather than diluting it with water, so let's go with that.

Talking rice again for a moment, the kind of rice you use in this recipe matters. Risotto rice is a high-starch short fat rice that absorbs liquid easily and turns creamy as it cooks. Arborio is the most readily available variety of this rice - other suitable varieties are Baldo, Carnaroli, Maratelli, Padano, Roma, and Vialone Nano. None of these except Arborio is readily available outside Italy, although if you can get your hands on some Carnaroli or some Maratelli, they are supposed to be the very best. Arborio, however, will work just fine for our purposes.

And that's really all you have to alter, except to reduce the oils and cheese a little. Let's go to two tablespoons butter, one tablespoon oil, and 1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese. Oh yes, and let's talk parmesan for a moment too. Never use any kind of "parmesan" that doesn't come from real parmigiano cheese - that means the kind made in Parma, Italy. The stuff in the round green box is not cheese; we don't know what it is. There is no good "domestic" parmesan, so go to a grocery store or cheese shop with a good cheese selection and get the real thing. Yes, it's better if it's freshly grated just before you use it . . . much better. But if you just can't deal with grating cheese while you're doing all the other cooking, you could A) grate it in advance, or B) buy it already grated (this is the least good option). Whichever you choose, be sure you're getting the real thing.

One more little thing. I always use white wine when I make risotto. Yes, I know Marcella is the expert and apparently she doesn't, but still . . . I like the extra depth a little wine adds to the finished dish. Indulge me, OK? So here's our altered recipe. Let's make some gorgeous Italian risotto!

Risotto con Parmigiano (Risotto with Parmesan cheese) for Two

2 cups canned or boxed chicken broth (or vegetable broth)
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons onion, chopped fine
1/4 cup dry white wine, like a sauvignon blanc
3/4 cup Arborio, or other risotto rice
1/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggianno
Salt, if needed

Bring the broth to a very low simmer on the stove, or microwave it for 2 minutes or until it is hot.

In a medium heavy-bottom saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the 1 tablespoon oil until the butter is melted. Add the chopped onion and saute, stirring, until the onion is soft. Don't let it brown.

Add the rice, stirring to coat it with the oil and to warm it. When it smells lightly toasted, about 2 minutes, add the white wine and let it boil until it is absorbed.

Add 1/3 cup of the hot broth, stirring constantly until it is absorbed by the rice. Add another 1/3 cup and stir until it is absorbed. Keeping the broth hot as you go, continue adding 1/3 cup at a time and stirring constantly until you have used almost all the broth. Taste a piece of the rice. If it still has a hard center, add the last of your hot broth, and while you are stirring heat up a little more. Add it until your rice has only the smallest bit of "tooth" in the center, and it looks nice and creamy.

Turn off the heat. Add the last tablespoon of butter and the grated parmesan and stir to combine it thoroughly with the rice. Taste for salt and add a little if needed. You're done.

What should you serve with your beautiful risotto? A good choice would be a simple fish fillet, cooked quickly under your oven's broiler. After all, you're busy stirring so why not make it easy on yourself? I love Rockfish, also called Rock Cod. This method works for any fish, so choose one you like.

Broiled Rockfish (or Any Fish)

Turn the broiler in your oven on High.

Put a tablespoon of butter in a broiler-proof dish, or pan. A skillet with an oven-proof handle will do fine. Put the dish under the broiler to melt the butter. Take it out of the oven before it burns!

Put two medium fish fillets in the pan with the melted butter and turn them over a couple of times. If there's a skin side, or a shiny side, end with that side down.

Season the fillets on the top side only with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and other spices as you desire. I often use crumbled dried oregano, or a jerk seasoning mix, or paprika, or a little cayenne pepper.

When everything else is nearly ready, slip the fish under the broiler for 4 to 8 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish. A fillet of sole, or a fairly thin fillet of rockfish, would take 4 minutes. A thick piece of salmon will take 6 minutes, partly because salmon is best a little on the rare side. A thick piece of halibut will take 7 or 8 minutes, and so on.

Take the fish out promptly and let it sit while you put the rest of the dinner on the table. Serve hot with lemon wedges and surrounded by risotto. Buon appetito!

You have made a fabulous dinner, unless of course you want to . . .

!!!Step it up!!!

. . . and make your own Homemade Meat Broth to use in the risotto. While canned stock makes a very nice dish, homemade stock raises everything to a new level. If you happen to be cooking for an Italian, this could be life-altering. Even if not. I mean, there could be a proposal. . . or jewelry, who knows? Make Homemade Meat Broth at your own risk!!

Homemade Meat Broth

Also from Marcella Hazan
Best if made the day before using

• Sea salt
• 1 carrot, peeled
• 1 medium onion, peeled
• 1 or 2 stalks celery
• 1/4 to 1/2 red or yellow bell pepper, cored and stripped of its seeds
• 1 small potato, peeled
• 1 fresh, ripe tomato or 1 canned Italian plum tomato, drained
• 5 pounds assorted beef, veal, and chicken, of which no more than 2 pounds may be bones. Use chicken wings and backs, cut up raw chuck roast, etc.

Makes 1 1/2 to 2 quarts

Put all the ingredients in a stockpot and add enough water to cover by 2 inches. Set the cover askew, turn on the heat to medium, and bring to a boil. As soon as the liquid starts to boil, slow it down to the gentlest of simmers by lowering the heat.

Skim off the scum that floats to the surface. Cook for 3 hours, always at a simmer.

Filter the broth through a large wire strainer lined with paper towels, into a ceramic or plastic bowl. Allow to cool completely, uncovered.

When cool, place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight, until the fat comes to the surface and solidifies. Scoop up and discard the fat.

If you are using the broth within 3 days, return the bowl to the refrigerator. If you expect to keep it longer than 3 days, freeze it in ziplock freezer bags or in ice cube trays for easy use.